Artificial Turf Installation

No, not for a proper permanent installation. You should remove the existing grass, roots, and organic material before installing artificial turf over soil. Leaving the old lawn underneath can lead to settlement, soft spots, weeds, and drainage problems later. It may look like skipping grass removal will save time and money. In practice, it leaves an unstable layer underneath the turf. A good artificial lawn needs prepared soil and a compacted sub-base, not living or decomposing grass beneath it. Can You Put Artificial Grass Directly Over Existing Grass? You can physically lay artificial grass over a lawn, but that does not make it a sound permanent installation. Natural grass is more than a green surface. Beneath it are roots, thatch, organic material, and soil that can change over time. Artificial turf does not stop those materials from breaking down or the ground from moving. For a permanent artificial grass installation over soil, the existing lawn should be removed first. The exposed soil can then be checked, graded, prepared for drainage, and compacted before the sub-base is installed. This is the key difference between what you can physically do and what should be done for a lasting installation. When homeowners ask, “can you put artificial grass on grass,” the practical answer is no for a permanent lawn. The turf needs a firm, prepared surface below it. A proper system is built in layers: Prepared soil → compacted sub-base → artificial turf → infill Existing grass does not belong in that structural system. Why Should You Remove Grass Before Installing Artificial Turf? The main issue is not the grass blades you can see. The bigger concern is what remains underneath them. Existing Grass Can Decompose and Cause Settlement Grass, roots, thatch, and other organic matter do not remain unchanged under an artificial lawn. Once the old lawn is covered, the organic material can break down. As it loses volume, the ground above it can settle. That may create soft spots, small voids, or low spots beneath the turf. The problem often develops slowly. At first, the new artificial lawn may look fine. Months later, you may notice a low area or a softer section underfoot. The turf did not cause the settlement. The material underneath it changed. That is why laying artificial turf on existing lawn is a poor choice for a permanent installation. The basic chain is simple: Grass and roots → decomposition → loss of volume → settlement → soft spots or low spots Removing the organic layer gives the installer a much better surface to inspect and prepare. Existing Grass Can Create an Uneven Surface Artificial turf follows the shape of the surface below it. It does not level an unstable subgrade. If the existing lawn has bumps, old roots, uneven soil, or areas that already settle, those conditions can remain below the turf. After installation, movement in the soil can show up as an uneven finished surface. This is why proper artificial grass installation over grass starts with removal rather than covering. Once the grass is gone, the subgrade can be inspected. Low areas can be addressed, the grade can be corrected, and the soil can be compacted where needed. A stable surface also reduces the chance of turf movement, wrinkles, and visible low spots. The goal is not simply to make the soil look flat. The goal is to create a firm surface that can support the complete turf system. Roots and Weeds Can Create Problems Removing the visible grass is not enough if a thick layer of roots and organic material remains. Roots can leave loose material in the soil. Existing weeds can also continue to create problems if they are not dealt with before installation. This matters around turf seams, edges, and small openings where vegetation may find a path upward. A weed barrier can help reduce weed growth, but it should not be treated as a replacement for removing the existing lawn. The better sequence is to remove the sod, roots, weeds, and loose organic material first. Then prepare the soil and use a suitable permeable weed barrier when the installation calls for one. Existing Grass Can Interfere With Drainage Artificial turf can allow water to pass through its backing, but that does not mean the ground underneath will drain properly. Drainage starts below the turf. The soil needs the correct grade, and the prepared base needs enough stability and permeability for water to move through the system. If the old lawn covers soil that already holds water, simply laying turf over it does not solve the problem. You may end up covering the symptoms instead of fixing the cause. A proper preparation sequence is: Remove vegetation → inspect soil → establish grade → address drainage → compact the subgrade → install the sub-base This gives the finished artificial lawn a better chance of handling normal rainfall without standing water or puddles. What Happens If You Install Artificial Grass Over Existing Grass? The problems are not always visible on installation day. Here is what can happen when the existing lawn is left underneath: Grass decomposes. Organic material can break down beneath the turf. The surface can settle. As the underlying material changes, the finished surface may sink. Low spots may form. Areas that settle more than others can create depressions. The turf can become uneven. Artificial grass follows movement below it. Water may collect. Poor grade or weak soil can contribute to standing water and puddles. Weeds may appear. Remaining vegetation can create growth problems around gaps and edges. Repairs become harder. Once the turf, seams, and perimeter are installed, correcting the ground underneath means disturbing finished work. These are the main artificial grass over grass problems to consider before choosing the shortcut. A turf surface can only be as stable as the foundation below it. This is also why poor preparation is one of the common causes of artificial turf failure. Ground movement, weak base preparation, and drainage issues can all show

Proper artificial grass preparation starts with the ground, not the turf. You need to remove vegetation and organic material, establish the correct elevation and drainage, prepare a stable sub-base, compact it properly, install the right barrier, and make sure the perimeter is ready before laying the turf. If you are learning how to prepare the ground for artificial grass, do not treat the job as simple leveling. The goal is to create a firm, well-drained, correctly graded surface that can support the entire turf system without soft spots, settling, or drainage problems. What Does Ground Preparation for Artificial Grass Involve? Good turf preparation follows a clear order: Remove the old grass and debris. Excavate to the right depth. Grade the soil. Solve any drainage issues. Build the sub-base. Compact it. Add a weed barrier where it makes sense. Prepare the perimeter. Then check that everything is ready. Each stage affects the next one. Removing roots but leaving poor drainage can still cause problems. Building a good sub-base over unstable soil can also lead to movement later. The prepared subgrade is the soil surface below the sub-base. It needs to be clean, stable, correctly graded, and ready to support the base material. Do You Have to Dig Up the Dirt Before Installing Artificial Grass? For a permanent installation over soil, you generally need to excavate rather than simply laying turf on top of existing dirt. Excavation does several jobs: Removes existing vegetation and roots Removes organic material that can decay Creates space for the sub-base Helps establish the correct finished elevation Allows proper grading Creates a stable foundation for the turf system The excavation depth is not one universal number for every yard. Existing grade, soil condition, drainage, surrounding hardscape, and the required turf system all affect the amount of soil that needs to be removed. The key is to reach the planned finished grade while leaving enough room for the complete base system. Before digging, check for underground utilities. In the United States, 811 is the nationwide “Call Before You Dig” resource for having buried utilities marked before excavation. How to Prepare the Ground for Artificial Grass 1. Remove Existing Grass, Weeds and Organic Material Start with a clean area. Remove existing sod, grass, weeds, roots, mulch, organic debris, and large rocks. A shovel or sod cutter can work for smaller residential areas. Larger projects may need mechanical equipment. Do not leave a thin layer of grass or roots because it looks harmless. Organic material can break down after installation and leave voids beneath the system. Those voids can contribute to uneven areas and settlement. The goal is to expose clean native soil that can be inspected and prepared. Look across the entire area after removal. Check for: Remaining roots Buried organic matter Large rocks Loose soil Soft areas Old landscape material Low spots This is also the point to remove anything that could interfere with the planned excavation and grade. 2. Excavate the Area to the Required Level Once the vegetation is gone, excavate the site to the required finished elevation. This is more than digging to a fixed number. You need to consider the existing grade and the height of the finished turf system compared with nearby surfaces. For example, a turf area next to a concrete walkway needs a planned transition. If you remove too little soil, the finished surface may sit too high. If you remove too much, you create unnecessary work and material requirements. During excavation, keep the subgrade reasonably consistent. Remove loose or unsuitable material instead of simply covering it with more aggregate. The final excavation should provide enough room for the planned sub-base while keeping the finished surface at the correct elevation. 3. Grade the Ground Before Adding the Base A common mistake is assuming that artificial turf requires a perfectly flat yard. It does not. The important goal is a properly graded surface that controls where water goes. Check for: High spots Low spots Existing slope Runoff paths Uneven transitions Areas that collect water A level surface and a properly graded surface are not always the same thing. A yard can look flat while still having poor water flow. Your finished grade should support the drainage plan and work with the surrounding property. The exact slope depends on the site. Do not force the same grade onto every yard. Existing structures, property drainage, hardscape, and local conditions all matter. 4. Address Drainage Problems Before Installing the Sub-Base Drainage needs to be checked before you cover the soil with aggregate. Look for standing water, saturated soil, water flowing toward the turf area, downspout discharge, low spots, dense clay, and unstable soil. If water already collects in the proposed turf area, simply adding a thicker base does not automatically solve the problem. Do not use the sub-base to hide a drainage problem. Dense clay can slow water movement. A hardpan layer can also restrict drainage below the surface. Saturated or unstable soil may need additional preparation before the base is installed. Depending on the site, the solution may involve correcting the slope, improving the drainage path, or adding a suitable drainage system. The important point is to solve the water problem before continuing with the base. A properly prepared surface should have a clear path for surface runoff rather than relying on chance. 5. Prepare and Install the Sub-Base After the subgrade is excavated, graded, and ready, the sub-base provides the stable working surface above the native soil. The sub-base helps create a firm foundation and supports drainage through the turf system. Common base material choices include: Crushed rock Class II road base Decomposed granite Other suitable aggregate specified for the installation The right material depends on the project. Soil condition, drainage, traffic, and the desired finished surface all matter. This article does not need to repeat a full comparison of base materials. For a deeper discussion of material selection, see The Best Base for Artificial Grass. Spread the aggregate evenly across the

For most permanent artificial grass installations over natural soil, yes, you need a properly prepared and compacted sub-base. It gives the turf a stable foundation, helps control drainage, and reduces settling, soft spots, and uneven areas. The answer changes when turf is installed over a sound concrete slab, patio, or another stable hard surface. In those cases, a traditional aggregate base may not be needed. The right choice depends on the surface, soil, drainage, traffic, and installation system. Do You Need a Sub-Base for Artificial Grass? The Quick Answer If you are installing artificial grass over dirt, soil, or an existing lawn, a sub-base is normally part of a proper permanent installation. Installation surface Traditional aggregate sub-base Natural soil Usually needed Existing lawn Usually needed after excavation Clay or unstable soil Needed with extra ground preparation Concrete slab Usually not needed Stable pavers or hardscape Usually not needed Temporary turf Depends on the use Rooftop Depends on the approved system Sloped site Depends on site conditions The reason is simple. Turf does not correct weak soil underneath it. If the ground moves, settles, or holds water, those problems can show through the finished lawn. A good sub base for artificial turf creates a firm layer between the prepared soil and the synthetic grass. It also gives the finished surface a more consistent shape. The main factors are: Installation surface Soil condition Drainage Expected foot traffic Base material Required thickness Compaction Ground stability So, the answer is not just about whether turf needs “rock.” It is about building the right foundation for the site. What Is a Sub-Base for Artificial Grass? A sub-base is the compacted layer of aggregate that sits between your prepared ground and your artificial turf. It’s the part nobody sees once the job is done, but it does most of the work. Think of it as layers stacked on top of each other. Native soil sits at the bottom. Above that is the graded subgrade. Then comes the compacted sub-base. Some installs add a thin leveling layer next. The artificial turf goes on top, and infill finishes the system. An artificial grass sub-base is not the same thing as infill or leveling sand. Infill sits inside the turf fibers. Leveling sand smooths small surface bumps. The sub-base is the structural layer that carries the load underneath everything else. What Does a Sub-Base Actually Do? A well-built sub-base for artificial turf does four jobs at once. Provides ground stability. It carries foot traffic, furniture, and daily wear without shifting. Prevents settling. Compacted aggregate resists the soft spots and depressions that raw soil develops over time. Supports drainage. Water moves through it instead of pooling on the surface. Creates a consistent surface. It gives you a level, smooth base so the turf backing lays flat. The Synthetic Turf Council’s base system guidelines describe the subgrade as the stable foundation that every layer above it depends on. Skip that foundation, and everything built on top of it inherits the problem. Can You Install Artificial Grass Directly on Dirt? You can physically place turf over dirt, but that does not make it a good permanent installation method. Untreated soil can settle, shift, hold water, and support weed growth. Dirt can also become soft when wet and hard when dry. That creates several risks: Uneven settling Soft areas Poor drainage Mud or soil movement Weed growth Turf movement Surface depressions A temporary turf installation is different. A removable lawn used for a short-term event or rental property may use a simpler system. Permanent residential turf needs a stronger foundation. A sub base for artificial lawn should therefore be selected based on the actual site rather than copied from a generic installation recipe. When Can You Skip a Traditional Aggregate Sub-Base? Not every turf project requires a traditional rock base. Concrete and Concrete Slabs A sound concrete slab already provides structural support. You may not need a conventional aggregate sub-base on top of it. However, the slab still needs inspection and preparation. Check for: Major cracks Loose sections Drainage problems Uneven areas Surface damage Water must also have a suitable path to drain. Installing turf over a damaged or poorly drained slab does not solve the slab’s problems. For a detailed installation method, see our guide on how to install artificial grass on concrete. Existing Pavers, Patios, and Other Hardscape Stable pavers, patios, and decking may also support turf without a traditional aggregate foundation. The existing surface must be stable first. Loose pavers, sinking sections, poor drainage, or large height changes need to be addressed before turf goes down. Alternative Base Systems Some rooftops, slopes, and limited-access areas require different systems. Lightweight base panels or other engineered systems can reduce the amount of loose aggregate that needs to be moved into a difficult area. These projects should be judged by the site and the base system being used. Do not assume a standard residential soil installation method works everywhere. What Is the Best Sub-Base for Artificial Grass? There is no single material that is best for every project. The best sub base for artificial grass depends on soil, drainage, traffic, material availability, and the required finish. Class II Road Base Class II road base is a graded aggregate commonly used for stable base construction. It can contain different-sized crushed particles and fines that help the material compact into a firm layer. It is a strong option for many residential landscape applications when properly graded and compacted. Crushed Miscellaneous Base (CMB) CMB is another common base material. It may contain crushed recycled concrete, asphalt, and other aggregate materials. Its performance depends on the material mix and local specifications. CMB can provide good stability when properly installed, but the exact material should be checked before purchase. Decomposed Granite Decomposed granite, or DG, consists of weathered granite particles. It can create a smooth, compact surface and is useful in some landscape applications. DG should not be selected simply because it sounds like a premium material.

Most artificial grass problems start below the turf or around its edges. The biggest artificial grass installation mistakes involve excavation, base preparation, compaction, drainage, seams, edge restraint, turf direction, and infill. Fixing these issues after installation can cost far more than doing the work correctly the first time. This guide explains what goes wrong, what you will notice when it happens, and how to prevent each problem. It also covers common finishing errors and signs that an artificial lawn has already been installed incorrectly. What Happens When Artificial Grass Is Installed Incorrectly? Every installation failure follows a chain. One weak link at the start causes bigger problems later. Poor excavation leads to an unstable base, and an unstable base leads to settlement and an uneven surface. Poor grading leads to bad drainage, and bad drainage leads to standing water. Wrong turf orientation leads to visible seams, and visible seams make the whole lawn look fake. Weak edge restraint lets the turf move, and movement causes curling. Wrong infill flattens the turf fibers and hurts drainage and comfort. The Synthetic Turf Council notes that turf seams need secure fastening and minimal, uniform gaps. It also recommends secure edge anchoring and even infill installation in multiple applications when the turf system requires it. The key point is simple: a turf roll can look perfect when it is first installed and still develop problems later if the layers underneath were not prepared correctly. Once you see this chain, the five mistakes below make more sense. Each one sets off problems that show up months later, long after the crew has packed up and gone home. Mistake 1: Inadequate Excavation and Site Preparation Why Insufficient Excavation Causes Problems Skipping proper excavation is the most common starting point for a bad lawn. Installers need to remove the existing grass, roots, and any organic soil. They also need to clear rocks and debris from the site. Organic matter left behind breaks down over time and leaves soft spots under the turf. Most residential jobs need three to four inches of excavation depth, measured down to the finished grade, also called the finished elevation. Pet areas and high traffic zones usually need more. What Happens When You Don’t Prepare the Ground Properly Organic material left in the ground does not stay put. It breaks down slowly, and as it decomposes, the ground above it settles. That settlement shows up months later as dips, low spots, and an uneven surface that looked fine on install day. How to Avoid It A good crew follows the same sequence every time: Remove all vegetation and roots. Excavate to the correct depth. Remove rocks and debris. Establish the finished grade. Inspect the subgrade soil before moving forward. Prepare the area for the base. Skipping any of these steps to save time almost always costs more later. Mistake 2: Poor Base Preparation or Insufficient Compaction Why the Sub-Base Matters The sub-base is the layer that does the real work. It provides: Stability under the turf Load distribution across the surface Support for drainage A uniform, level surface Resistance to settlement over time Most residential jobs use a compacted layer of crushed stone, decomposed granite, or a Class II road base. Without it, the turf above has nothing solid to rest on. What Happens When the Base Isn’t Compacted Properly Loose aggregate does not hold its shape under foot traffic. It shifts and settles, and that creates depressions right where you walk most. Compaction is not just running a plate compactor over the surface one time. It takes several passes in thin layers, called lifts, to reach the density a turf system needs. The NRCS soil compaction guide explains how compaction reduces the pore space in soil, which is part of why aggregate choice and moisture control matter as much as the compactor itself. Common Base Preparation Mistakes Using the wrong aggregate for the soil type Uneven base thickness across the yard Poor grading before compaction Not enough compaction passes Compacting soil that is too wet Leaving soft spots unchecked How to Avoid Base Failure Choose aggregate suited to your soil and drainage needs Keep the base layer thickness consistent Grade the yard before compacting Check soil moisture before running the compactor Walk the full area to check for soft or uneven spots Compact in lifts, not all at once If you want to know about which one is the best base for artificial grass then read this: The best base for artificial grass Mistake 3: Ignoring Drainage and Site Slope Why Artificial Grass Can Still Have Drainage Problems Many homeowners assume the turf handles drainage on its own. Turf backing does have drainage holes, and better products use a permeable backing. But the layers underneath, and the slope of your yard, decide whether water actually leaves the area. Turf with great drainage holes still fails if the base beneath it holds water. What Causes Poor Drainage Inadequate slope Compacted soil that will not absorb water A poor-draining subgrade An inadequate base Blocked drainage paths Low spots that trap water Water flowing toward the house or other structures A drainage design that does not match the site Signs of Drainage Failure Standing water after rain Puddles that take days to disappear Soggy or spongy areas Persistent odor in pet areas Moss or mold-related issues Water draining slower than it should How to Prevent Drainage Problems Assess the site and existing water flow. Grade the yard away from structures. Build a base that supports drainage, not just weight. Plan a clear drainage path for water to exit. Install the turf last, once the layers below are right. Pet areas need extra attention. A pet urine drainage failure causes lingering odor, and real odor control depends on a clean runoff path through a drainage channel under the turf, not just spraying the surface after the fact. San Diego County gets short, heavy rain events rather than steady rainfall spread across the week. That pattern

A typical artificial grass project takes about 1 to 3 days when handled by a professional crew. Small, simple lawns may be finished in one day, while large or difficult yards can take several days. How long does it take to install artificial grass depends less on laying the turf itself and more on the work underneath it. Existing grass, soil, drainage, yard access, square footage, seams, and the amount of ground preparation all affect the final schedule. How Long Does Artificial Grass Installation Usually Take? For most residential projects, plan for one to three working days from ground preparation through final cleanup. A small lawn with easy access and good soil may take less than a full day. A large backyard with drainage work, grading, or many cuts can take longer. The key is to separate labor hours from calendar days. Ten hours of work does not always mean ten hours on your property. A professional installation crew may complete those hours in one day, while a smaller crew may spread the same work over two days. The project duration usually depends on three things: Project size: More square footage means more material handling, cutting, seams, and infill. Site preparation: Removing grass, excavating, grading, building the base, and fixing drainage can take more time than expected. Project complexity: Curves, slopes, trees, hardscape, narrow gates, and multiple turf areas require more measuring and custom cuts. A simple installation can move quickly. A difficult site needs more time because the preparation determines how well the finished turf performs. Artificial Grass Installation Time by Project Size This breaks down turf installation timelines by size, so you can find the scenario closest to your own yard. Small Residential Lawn A small lawn under 500 square feet is usually the fastest job on our schedule. Most jobs this size on a residential property finish in four to eight hours. A two-person crew can handle site preparation, turf laying, and cleanup in one day, since crew size doesn’t need to be large for a job this small. Average Residential Lawn A typical residential yard between 500 and 1,500 square feet takes one to two full days. Day one covers preparation and the base. Day two covers turf installation, seams, and infill. This is the size we see most often in backyards across San Diego County. Large Backyard A large backyard over 1,500 square feet often needs two to four days. More square footage means more excavation and grading. Drainage work takes longer too, since water needs a clear path off the property. Crews also handle multiple turf rolls on a job this size, which means more seams to join by hand. A bigger crew helps keep this kind of project on schedule. Commercial Artificial Turf Installation Commercial artificial turf installation works on a different scale. A commercial property might need a week or longer, depending on the total commercial lawn size. Large-scale installation projects usually run in phases. Site preparation happens first, followed by material delivery, then the turf work itself. Scheduling gets more complex too, since a larger work crew needs coordinating across several project phases. How Much of the Installation Time Is Spent on Preparation? Preparation is often the part homeowners underestimate. Before turf can be installed, the existing surface must be ready to support it. That may mean removing existing grass and vegetation, excavating soil, leveling the area, improving drainage, installing the base material, compacting the base, and adding edging. The exact preparation time depends on what is already under the lawn. For example, removing a thin lawn from a clean, accessible area is very different from excavating a yard with thick roots, rocky soil, compacted ground, or poor drainage. The main preparation steps include: Vegetation removal: Existing grass, weeds, roots, and other organic material are removed. Excavation: Soil may need to be removed to create room for the proper base and finished turf height. Grading and leveling: The surface is shaped so the finished lawn has the correct slope and drains properly. Base installation: Aggregate base material is placed in layers. Compaction: A plate compactor creates a firm, stable surface. Drainage: Drainage work is added when existing water flow is not adequate. Edging: The perimeter is prepared so the turf can be secured cleanly. This is why two yards with the same square footage can have very different installation timelines. How Long Does It Take to Lay the Artificial Grass? Once the ground is properly prepared, the visible turf installation can move much faster. The crew first handles the turf rolls and positions them over the prepared area. The turf may need time to relax after being rolled, depending on the material and installation conditions. Next comes positioning and cutting. The crew aligns the turf with the planned layout and makes careful cuts around: walls trees planting beds corners hardscape posts other fixed objects The seams require extra care. Adjacent turf sections must be aligned so the pile direction looks consistent. Seam tape and adhesive may be used where required, and the perimeter is secured with the appropriate fasteners or edging method. A simple rectangular lawn with few seams is much faster than a yard with many curves and custom cuts. The phrase install synthetic turf can sound simple, but the quality of the finished surface depends heavily on the work done before and during these cuts and joins. How Long Does Infill and Final Finishing Take? Infill is what gives artificial grass its bounce and helps the blades stand up straight. We spread silica sand or another infill material evenly across the surface. After infill, power brushing comes next. This step grooms the fibers and fixes blade orientation, so the lawn looks natural instead of flat. Then we run a full cleanup, clearing away scraps and dust from the job site. Infill and finishing usually take one to two hours on a standard yard. We wrap up with a final inspection to check seams, edges, and drainage before we

Yes, you can learn how to install artificial grass yourself. But the real work happens before you ever unroll the turf. Most installation failures start with skipped ground prep, not bad turf. This guide walks you through the full process, the way we do it in real San Diego yards. We cover every stage of artificial turf installation, from site inspection to final check. You’ll also learn what changes the process and how to tell if your finished lawn was done right. How Artificial Grass Installation Works Before we break down each step, here’s the full sequence. This is what a proper artificial grass installation actually involves, start to finish: Plan and measure the area Inspect the site Remove existing grass Excavate the ground Prepare and compact the soil Install the sub-base Set the grade for drainage Install a weed barrier where needed Position the turf Cut and fit the turf Join the seams Secure the edges Apply infill Brush and inspect the finished lawn Skip any one of these steps and you’re not really installing artificial turf. You’re just covering dirt with carpet. Let’s go through each stage. What You Need Before Installing Artificial Grass Tools You’ll need a shovel, a rake, a wheelbarrow, and a tape measure for the early stages. A utility knife handles cutting. A hand tamper or plate compactor packs down your base material. A screed helps level the base. A stiff push broom finishes the job by standing the grass fibers up. Wear gloves and eye protection while you work. Materials Your material list includes the artificial grass itself, sub-base aggregate, a weed barrier, seam tape, adhesive, turf nails or staples, edge restraint, and infill. Each one plays a specific role. The aggregate holds the shape and drainage of your base. The weed barrier stops growth from below. The infill weighs the turf down and keeps the blades standing up. If you skip one, you’re not skipping a small detail. You’re skipping a system. Plan the Artificial Grass Installation This is the stage most guides rush through, and it’s where good installations actually start. Measure the Installation Area Measure the full square footage of your yard, including any curves or odd corners. Artificial grass comes in rolls, usually 12 or 15 feet wide, so irregular shapes create more waste. Order extra material, around 10%, to cover cuts and mistakes. Plan Turf Roll Direction Every roll of turf has a grain, like carpet. The fibers all lean one way. Lay out your rolls so the grain runs in the same direction across the whole yard. If you mix directions, the color will look different in the sun from different angles, even though it’s the same grass. Plan Seams and Cuts Before Installation Walk your yard and mark where seams will fall, where trees or posts sit, and where curves or borders will need trimming. Planning this on paper first saves you from cutting into good material later. Inspect the Site Before You Dig This step is what separates a real artificial grass installation from a weekend project. Before any digging starts, check the following: Soil type. San Diego yards often sit on clay or decomposed granite. Clay drains slowly and compacts differently than sandy soil. Know what you’re working with before you dig. Drainage. Look at where water already flows during rain. That pattern won’t disappear just because you added turf. Slopes and low spots. Note any dips where water pools. These need extra grading, not extra turf. Irrigation and utility lines. Call 811 before you dig, always. Sprinkler lines and buried cable are easy to miss and expensive to cut. Access and equipment. A narrow side gate might block a plate compactor. Know your access before you rent equipment. How the area will be used. A yard with dogs or kids needs different base depth and infill than a quiet side patch. Plan for the real use, not just the finished look. Remove Existing Grass and Prepare the Ground Can You Install Artificial Grass Over Natural Grass? No. Don’t lay turf directly over live grass or sod. It’s the most common question we get, and it’s an easy one to answer wrong if you’re in a hurry. Grass, roots, and other organic matter under your turf will break down over time. As it decomposes, the ground shifts and sinks unevenly. That leads to bumps, poor drainage, and weed growth pushing up through your new lawn within a year or two. If you’re searching for how to lay artificial turf on grass, here’s the short version: you don’t lay it on top. You remove the grass and roots first, then build a proper base. We cover this in full detail in our article on installing artificial turf over existing grass. If you want to now about the base of artificial grass then read this article first ” The Best Base for Artificial Grass ”. Excavate the Area to the Appropriate Depth Most residential jobs call for excavating 3 to 4 inches, but that number isn’t fixed. It depends on your soil, your drainage needs, and how the space will be used. A dog run or high-traffic area often needs a deeper base than a decorative side yard. Don’t trust any guide, including this one, that gives you one number without asking about your yard first. Dig to your existing grade, and remove enough depth to fit your base material plus the turf system on top. Grade and Compact the Soil Why Soil Compaction Matters Loose soil settles over time, even under a light layer of turf. As it settles, your lawn develops soft spots, dips, and an uneven surface. Compaction now saves you a repair later. How to Create the Correct Grade Slope the ground slightly away from your house and toward a safe drainage point, usually about a 1 to 2 percent grade. That’s roughly a quarter inch of drop for every foot of distance. How to Identify Low Spots Run a hose

Artificial Turf Grass has so many different names or terms that it is called that no website about the synthetic grass industry would be complete without giving this some mention. At HomeTurf® of San Diego, we are always joking about this phenomenon and compile a list of all the names we have heard synthetic turf called. If you have any terms to add to the list please call and let us know. Here’s the list. Artificial Turf Artificial Grass Artificial Turf Grass Artificial Grass Turf Artificial Lawn Artificial Lawn Turf Artificial Lawn Grass Artificial Lawn Turf Grass Artificial Lawn Grass Turf Synthetic Turf Synthetic Grass Synthetic Turf Grass Synthetic Grass Turf Synthetic Lawn Synthetic Lawn Turf Synthetic Lawn Grass Synthetic Lawn Turf Grass Synthetic Lawn Turf Grass Fake Turf Fake Grass Fake Turf Grass Fake Grass Turf Fake Lawn Fake Lawn Turf Fake Lawn Grass Fake Lawn Turf Grass Fake Lawn Grass Turf Faux Turf Faux Grass Faux Turf Grass Faux Grass Turf Faux Lawn Faux Lawn Turf Faux Lawn Grass Faux Lawn Turf Grass Faux Lawn Grass Turf Astro Turf Grass Astro Turf Grass Turf Astro Turf Lawn Astro Turf Lawn Turf Astro Turf Lawn Turf Astro Turf Fake Grass Astro Turf Fake Grass Lawn Astro Turf Synthetic Grass Astro Turf Synthetic Grass Lawn Turf Astroturf Grass Astroturf Grass Turf Astroturf Lawn Astroturf Lawn Turf Astroturf Fake Grass Astroturf Fake Grass Lawn Astroturf Synthetic Grass Astroturf Synthetic Grass Lawn Turf Frass (Fake Grass) HomeTurf® Hometurf Football Turf Football Astrotur Football Synthetic Turf Football Synthetic Grass Football Artificial Turf Football Artificial Grass Football Grass Waterless Grass Maintenance Free Grass Pet Grass Dog Grass Dog Turf Dog Artificial Grass Dog Synthetic Grass Dog Artificial Turf Pet Turf Pet Artificial Grass Pet Synthetic Grass Pet Artificial Turf Landscape Grass Maintenance Free Landscape Grass Waterless Landscape Grass No Mow Grass Field Turf Fieldturf San Diego Artificial Turf San Diego Artificial Grass San Diego Artificial Turf Grass San Diego Artificial Grass Turf San Diego Artificial Turf San Diego Artificial Grass San Diego Artificial Turf Grass San Diego Artificial Grass Turf San Diego Artificial Lawn San Diego Artificial Lawn Turf San Diego Artificial Lawn Grass San Diego Artificial Lawn Turf Grass San Diego Artificial Lawn Grass Turf San Diego Synthetic Turf San Diego Synthetic Grass San Diego Synthetic 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Grass Turf San Diego Astroturf Lawn San Diego Astroturf Lawn Turf San Diego Astroturf Fake Grass San Diego Astroturf Fake Grass Lawn San Diego Astroturf Synthetic Grass San Diego Astroturf Synthetic Grass Lawn Turf San Diego Frass (Fake Grass) San Diego HomeTurf® San Diego Hometurf San Diego Football Turf San Diego Football Astrotur San Diego Football Synthetic Turf San Diego Football Synthetic Grass San Diego Football Artificial Turf San Diego Football Artificial Grass San Diego Football Grass San Diego Waterless Grass San Diego Maintenance Free Grass San Diego Pet Grass San Diego Dog Grass San Diego Dog Turf San Diego Dog Artificial Grass San Diego Dog Synthetic Grass San Diego Dog Artificial Turf San Diego Pet Turf San Diego Pet Artificial Grass San Diego Pet Synthetic Grass San Diego Pet Artificial Turf San Diego Landscape Grass San Diego Maintenance Free Landscape Grass San Diego Waterless Landscape Grass San Diego No Mow Grass San Diego Field Turf San Diego Fieldturf Artificial 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Turf Grass San Diego Astro Turf Grass Turf San Diego Astro Turf Lawn San Diego Astro Turf Lawn Turf San Diego Astro Turf Lawn Turf San Diego Astro Turf Fake Grass San Diego Astro Turf Fake Grass Lawn San Diego Astro Turf Synthetic Grass San Diego Astro Turf Synthetic Grass Lawn Turf San Diego Astroturf Grass San Diego Astroturf Grass Turf San Diego Astroturf Lawn San Diego Astroturf Lawn Turf San Diego Astroturf Fake Grass San Diego Astroturf Fake Grass Lawn San Diego Astroturf Synthetic Grass San Diego Astroturf Synthetic Grass Lawn Turf San Diego Frass (Fake